| When the sun goes down and the temperature drops a few precious degrees, Chinese cities wake up for their second day. Side streets light up with colorful lanterns and plastic stools. The air fills with the smell of grilled meat, fried dough and cold beer. This is 夜市 (yèshì) — the night market — and it is the beating heart of summer social life in China. For locals, a summer evening without a slow walk through a night market barely feels like summer at all.  Night markets have existed in China for over a thousand years. As far back as the Song Dynasty, cities like Kaifeng and Hangzhou had bustling night markets with food stalls, teahouses and street performers. Today the tradition is stronger than ever. Almost every city and town has at least one famous night market, and in summer they stay busy until midnight or later. What makes them so beloved is the atmosphere. Unlike formal restaurants, night markets are relaxed, loud and unpretentious. People sit on tiny plastic stools at rickety folding tables, sharing big plates of food with friends. Strangers sit next to each other. Nobody dresses up. The whole point is to be comfortable, eat well and enjoy the cooler evening air. Food is, of course, the main attraction. Every night market has its own classics, but you will see the same favourites everywhere. 烤串 (kǎochuàn) — grilled skewers — are the undisputed king: lamb, beef, chicken wings, mushrooms, eggplant and even whole mantou bread, all dusted with cumin and chilli powder. Other staples include 小龙虾 (xiǎolóngxiā) — crayfish in spicy garlic sauce, 炒花甲 (chǎo huājiǎ) — stir-fried clams, 凉面 (liángmiàn) — cold noodles, and 冰粉 (bīngfěn) — iced jelly dessert for something sweet at the end. But night markets are about more than just food. Many have rows of clothing stalls selling cheap summer dresses, t-shirts and sandals. You will find phone accessory stands, toy sellers and street artists doing portraits. Some bigger markets have carnival games, ring toss and even small karaoke booths. In older cities, you might also see traditional crafts like sugar painting and dough figurines. Every region puts its own spin on the night market. In Changsha, the markets are famous for 臭豆腐 (chòu dòufu) — stinky tofu. In Xiamen, every stall sells fresh oysters and squid. In Xi’an, you will find roujiamo burgers and cold noodle dishes from the northwest. But wherever you go, the rhythm is the same: arrive after 8pm, eat slowly, stay late, and leave full and happy. There are a few unwritten rules to know. First, prices are usually cheap and fixed — haggling is rare at food stalls. Second, you usually order and pay first at the stall, then take your food to a shared table. Third, it is completely normal to share a table with strangers; nobody minds. And finally, the best time to go is after 9pm, when the worst heat has passed and the market is in full swing. |
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